The velvety oval green leaves with a red or pinkish hue and the larger, three-lobed mature green leaves make Philodendron camposportoanum (Fi·luh·den·druhn cam-POS-por-toe-AH-num) an adorable evergreen perennial houseplant.
It is easy to care for if you can maintain higher humidity and its smaller size make it a perfect greenhouse cabinet or vivarium plant. But you can still grow it in a hanging basket if you don’t want to let it trail on a moss pole or trellis.
Learn more on P. camposportoanum, including its appearance, growing habits, care (light, humidity, temperature, soil, fertilizer, pruning, repotting, etc.), and problems it may have. We will tell you where to buy it, like Etsy.com, and answer a few FAQs.
Table of content
- Quick overview
- Philodendron camposportoanum appearance and description
- Philodendron camposportoanum care
- How to propagate Philodendron camposportoanum
- Common problems and issues
- Philodendron camposportoanum on sale
- Frequently asked questions (FAQs)
- Scientific name: Philodendron camposportoanum
- Discribed by: Graziela Maciel Barroso (1912-2003)
- Common name(s): Philo camposportoanum or Philodendron Campos
- Subgenus: Subgenus: Pteromischum
- Family: Araceae (arum family or aroids)
- Tribe: Philodendreae
- Native habitat: Bolivia, Brazil, French Guiana, Colombia, Suriname, Guyana, and Peru
- Toxicity: It is toxic to humans, cats, dogs, and other pets because it has calcium oxalate. These sharp or needle-like insoluble crystals cause severe oral irritation and burning. Also, lips, tongue, or mouth will swell, and patients may have swallowing difficulties, loss of appetite, and drooling, among other signs. Also, it causes mild skin irritation.
- Care level: Low maintenance or easy
Philodendron camposportoanum appearance and description
What does this plant look like (leaves, stems, flowers, etc.) and its growing habits?
1. Growing habits
Philodendron camposportoanum is a small, creeping, sometimes climbing evergreen, perennial flowering plant. It is native to mainly Western Brazil rainforests. But you will also find it in Bolivia, Colombia, Peru, French Guiana, Venezuela, Suriname, and Guyana. In Bolivia, botanists have collected it in low elevations 490-625 feet (150- 190 m).
This charming plant will have oval leaves. As it starts climbing, the leaves become that will transform into heart-shaped with long back lobes. And at maturity, the leaves will appear three-lobed, resembling Philodendron barrosoanum.
2. Growth rate and size
Camposportoanum is a fast-growing plant that can reach about 3 feet or taller at home. But if you want it to grow that long, please stake it and provide optimum growing conditions.
Philodendron camposportoanum has membrane-like green leaves. Juvenile plants have smaller, oval velvety leaves with a pinkish or reddish hue or tint as they emerge. As it grows, the leaves transform into heart-shaped with long base lobes.
When Philodendron camposportoanum matures, leaves are tripartite (three-lobed), what some people describe as hammer-shaped. Also, they will lose the pink or reddish hue. These deeply three-lobed leaves are about 8.7 inches (22 cm) long, and their width is half the length. But they may be 12 inches (30 cm) long.
Lastly, their terete petiole, slightly longer than the lamina, has a sheath 1/3 the length from the base and attenuates towards the apex.
It has greenish vining stems with somewhat long internodes 7.9-9.8 inches (20-25 cm) that grow roots at the nodes.
Like other Philodendron species, camposportoanum has bears inflorescence flowers. Their peduncle is slightly shorter than the spadix, and the oblong-oval spathe has a slight constriction.
The spathe is green outside, pale yellow inside, and its base is purple, while the spadix is divided into the green female zone at the bottom while the male is yellowish-white. The male region has a sterile part at the center and a fertile male section on the top side of the spadix.
Philodendron camposportoanum vs. micans
Philodendron micans (Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum) is one of the Philodendron hederaceum (Philodendron scandens or heartleaf Philodendron) varieties. Its other names are Velvet Philodendron or Velvet Leaf Philodendron.
In its juvenile form, it does resemble Philodendron camposportoanum but not without notable differences. However, their mature forms are so distinctive.
Philodendron micans is primarily a climbing plant with light green to dark green to bronze velvety heart-shaped leaves with a pink or purple hue on new leaves.
On the other hand, camposportoanum juvenile leaves are oval green with a pink or reddish hue, and it grows like a creeper but may also climb.
A clear difference comes in their mature stage. P. micans leaves become larger but remain heart-shaped, while camposportoanum leaves will be tri-lobed. Also, mican becomes much larger, and its adult form is uncommon under cultivation.
Philodendron camposportoanum care
It shouldn’t be hard to care for this plant if you have ever had any Philodendron species. You need to ensure bright, indirect light, high humidity, and a warm place. But don’t forget to water, feed, get the right potting mix, etc.
Here is the Philodendron camposportoanum care:
1. USDA hardiness zone
Philo camposportoanum USDA hardiness is 10 or above. It doesn’t tolerate frost, and freezing temperatures will kill it. So, only if you are in this zone can you grow it outdoors. For the rest, ensure it overwinters indoors.
P. camposportoanum loves humidity and will best thrive at 60% or more. But 50% or more is still ok. Avoid low humidity. Otherwise, this aroid’s thin or subcoriaceous (somewhat leathery) leaves may start having dry tips and edges. Other possible signs are leaves turning yellow, curling, drooping or wilting, etc.
If your house has low humidity, you can raise it by misting your plant, having a pebble tray, or grouping your plants (create a microclimate). Also, you can move it to the bathroom or kitchen if well lit.
Lastly, consider buying a terrarium or cabinet greenhouse to help you maintain high humidity.
The ideal temperature range for your Philodendron camposportoanum is 65 to 75°F (18 to 29°C) with daytime temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 °F (24-29C) and nighttime 75 to 85 °F (18-24°C). Temperatures below 55 °F (12.8°C) will stunt growth.
Avoid sudden dips or spikes, cold drafts, or extremely high temperatures (heat stress). So, don’t put your plant in draft areas in winter, near heat emitting appliances or sources and air conditioning vents. Otherwise, they will stress your plant causing leaf scorch, yellowing, etc.
4. Light needs
Philodendron camposportoanum needs bright, indirect light but can tolerate medium leaves. Avoid low lights as it will make your plant leggy and more petite, paler, or yellow leaves. Also, it will grow much slower.
If your home isn’t well lit, you need to get a grow light. Go for brands with a light intensity of 10000 to 20000 lux (1000 to 2000 footcandles) for optimum growth.
On the other hand, you need to avoid direct sunlight. Why? Because it will cause sunburn. Leaves will look washed out, bleached and yellowish and may have brown patches, tips, margins, or leaf scorch. But an hour or two of early morning sun is ok.
To avoid direct sunlight, place the plant under a shade (if outdoors) or at a distance from the window where direct sunlight doesn’t reach it.
They grow best in moist soil that slightly dries before another watering session. So, we recommend you water your Philodendron camposportoanum when the top 1-2 inches of the potting mix feels dry.
You may have to water after a few days to a week in the growing season and about biweekly in fall and winter. But the exact duration will depend on your conditions (light, humidity, and temperature), potting mix, pot size, pot type, season, etc. So, we insist on testing the soil with your finger. If it feels dry up to the first knuckle, it’s time to water it.
When watering, saturate the soil until excess water flows from drainage holes. Then discard what collects in the cachepot or saucer after 15 minutes.
Overwatering Philo camposportoanum and wet potting mix will cause lower yellow leaves, brown splotches, mushy stem bases, moldy potting mix, wilting, slow growth, root rot, etc.
On the other hand, underwatering will make leaves have brown tips and edges, curl, turn yellow or droop. The soil will feel dry and pulled from the pot edges, and prolonged cases may cause stunted growth, leaves falling, withering, or death.
6. Best soil mix
The best Philodendron camposportoanum soil mix should be slightly acidic to neutral (pH 5-7), well-drained, airy, and high in organic matter. In the wild, it grows on the rainforest floor with plentiful decaying organic matter (leaves, bark, animal droppings, etc.). A similar potting mix will work.
You can go for an aroid potting mix or make yours at home. It’s nothing complicated. They can grow even in sphagnum moss alone.
A good mix should have peat moss or coco coir, perlite or orchid bark, and compost or worm casting. Peat moss and coco coir will help retain moisture, perlite, orchid bark, or coco chips will improve drainage, while compost or worm castings will serve as a source of organic matter.
The exact mixture ratio doesn’t matter. But ensure the potting mix can hold moisture and drains (doesn’t get soggy). Also, it has to be nutrient reach.
We use 60% coco coir or peat-based potting mix and add 20% bark chips, 10% bark chips, and 10% compost or worm castings.
Feed your P. camposportoanum with a balanced, liquid fertilizer for houseplants bi-weekly to once a month at half a strength during the growing months only. You can also use a slow-release formula for potted or houseplants. Begin fertilizing in early spring and follow what the manufacturer recommends.
Please, avoid overfeeding as it may cause fertilizer burns, wilting, leaves yellowing and stunted growth. Also, downward curling of leaf tips and margin may occur
This Philodendron doesn’t grow very large. So, it doesn’t need much pruning. But you should remove any dead, damaged, or diseased leaves with a sterilized pruning knife or scissors.
That is not all. During the growing months, especially early spring, you can cut back some stems to control your plant’s shape and encourage bushy growth or branching.
Philo camposportoanum repotting should occur every 2-3 years or if rootbound. The telltale signs that your plant needs repotting include roots growing from drainage holes and a compact mass with roots spiraling around the pot. More indicators are stunted growth, leaf discoloration, drooping, etc.
We recommend repotting during growing months, unless very necessary. Use a pot 2-3 inches wider in diameter. Also, ensure it has enough drainage holes.
10. Staking or support
Yes, this Philodendron grows mainly as a terrestrial creeper. But it may also climb. So, we recommend you provide and train it on a moss pole, trellis, or somewhere to climb. It looks best when allowed to climb, but some people opt to let it grow on the cabinet, tabletop, or hanging baskets.
How to propagate Philodendron camposportoanum
The best way to propagate Philodendron camposportoanum is by stem cutting in a potting mix or water. But you can also go for air layering. Seeds are uncommon and hard to find.
The best time to propagate your plant is in spring or early summer because it will give your plant enough time to establish itself before the non-growing season.
We will talk about stem cutting propagation in potting mix and comment on water propagation and air layering.
1. What you need
- Potting mix
- Pruning scissors
- Nursery pot or where to grow the cuttings
- Rooting hormone. It is not mandatory but will promote faster rooting and reduce rot changes.
- Transparent plastic bag. It will help loc humidity. But if you have a terrarium or greenhouse cabinet or a humidifier, you don’t need it.
- 70-90% rubbing alcohol for sterilizing your pruning scissors
- Select a healthy, mature stem with at least two nodes and cut it with your sterilized pruning scissors. Nodes are the knobby areas with aerial roots and where leaves attach. If it has more than two leaves, remove the lower leaves.
- Apply your rooting hormone on the cut end, covering the nodes you intend to plant into the soil.
- Poke a small hole on the potting mix with your finger or stick and plant your Philodendron camposportoanum stem cutting. Then lightly press soil against it to ensure it remains upright.
- Thoroughly water your cutting until excess water flowers from drainage holes. Then cover it with your plastic bag (ensuring it doesn’t touch leaves). Use a chopstick to prevent the bag from touching foliage. But remember to leave a small breathing opening.
- Place your propagated cutting in a warm place with bright, indirect light.
- Routinely, after 2-3 days, remove the plastic bag to allow your plant to breathe for a few hours and mist the potting mix if it begins to dry. It should remain moist but not soggy.
Your plant will have rooted and put new growth by the end of the 4th to the 6th week, and you can transplant it. But the exact timing will depend on the growing condition.
3. Water propagation
Instead of planting it in the potting mix, you will dip your plant in a jar with water. But make sure it doesn’t touch the leaves. Afterward, you will change the water every 3-4 days or when the level drops.
After 5 to 6 weeks, your plant will have grown roots. Also, you will see new growth. Transplant it when roots are about 2-3 inches, and there is new growth.
3. Air layering
Air layering involves wrapping moist sphagnum moss on the nodes of the stem you intend to propagate will still be attached to the mother plant. You can use a plastic bag. But remember to poke holes for aeration. Also, be misting sphagnum moss.
Once it roots well, you will cut just beneath the place with a sphagnum moss wrap and grow it in your potting mix.
Common problems and issues
As you grow your plant, you may have issues like diseases, pests, drooping, leaf discoloration, etc. Let us look at some of these issues.
Pests are uncommon in Philo camposportoanum grown indoors. Nonetheless, they may occur. Some of the bugs that may attack your plant include aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, and thrips. All these pests will suck plant juices and cause damage to tissues.
They will appear as small bumps or dogs that may move, fly or be stationary. Some have waxy bodies.
Use a magnifying glass to check for these pests or monitor their signs. Also, check for webbing, honeydew, sooty mold, silvery stippling, black, brown, or yellow spots, etc. The exact ones will depend on the pest present.
Only in severe infestation can you see mishappen leaves, yellowing, falling off, or appearing curly.
To treat all these pests, use insecticidal soaps, neem oil, or horticultural oil sprays. Bonide (BND022) Ready to Use is one such product that will manage these pests.
The other ignored pest whose larvae stage feed on roots is fungus gnats. Their adult forms resemble shore flies and are harmless to your plants.
Signs of infestation include sudden wilting, leaves falling, vigor loss, stunted growth, or leaves turning yellow.
To control the larvae, pour 20% hydrogen peroxide (1 part of hydrogen peroxide to 4 parts of water) into the potting mix, focusing on areas around the roots.
Like pests, diseases are uncommon. But they do occur especially bacterial and fungal leaf spots and root rot.
Leaf spot disease will cause brown dry, or water-soaked lesions that may turn black. While root rot will cause wilting, leaves turning yellow, mushy base bases, black or brown mushy roots, etc.
For leaf spot disease, immediately prune the affected parts. Afterward, if fungal, use a fungicide. Bacterial leaf spots have no cure. But copper-containing bactericide may help prevent spread.
On the other hand, to manage philodendron root rot, repot the plant, cutting off the affected roots. Afterward, avoid overwatering this plant.
Last but not least, to prevent diseases, practice proper sanitation (sterilize gardening equipment, pots, and wash hands), isolate new plants, and provide ideal growing conditions. Healthy plants are not susceptible to diseases or even pests.
3. Other issues
Besides pests and diseases, your plant may have common P. camposportoanum problems and some probable causes.
|Overwatering is the most likely cause of leaves turning yellow. But other things like underwatering, low humidity, too much light, nutritional deficiency, heat stress, etc., may cause this problem.|
|Brown tips, edges, spots, or leaves||If you see crispy brown tips and edges, they are a likely sign of leaf scorch. Possible causes include underwatering, extreme temperature, too much light, low humidity, overfeeding, etc. If you see brown spots or splotches, it may be pests, diseases, or overwatering. Cold drafts can also cause brown splotches or leaves to turn brown overnight.|
|Black spots or leaves||Pests and diseases are the most likely reasons. Others less likely are overwatering, water quality, or cold damage.|
|Leaves curling||The most likely causes are underwatering, low humidity, extreme temperature, or too much light. But plant shock after repotting, overwatering, pests, disease, etc., are possible causes.|
|Drooping and wilting||Drooping and wilting indicate a thirsty plant. But overwatering, too much light, low humidity, extreme temperatures, etc., are also to blame.|
Philodendron camposportoanum on sale
Etsy.com, followed by eBay, is the best place to find P. camposportoanum on sale. These two places have vendors from all over the world. So, it is not just people from the US that can buy from Etsy or eBay but those from the UK, Canada, Australia, Germany, New Zealand, etc. Just find vendors from your area or those willing to ship.
Social media platforms, especially Instagram and Facebook plant groups, are the other place you will be guaranteed to get many vendors.
If you haven’t found this plat yet, use search engines. Google “Philodendron camposportoanum for sale.” We assure you that many vendors and websites will pop up.
Frequently asked questions (FAQs)
Yes. P. camposportoanum is rare and hard-to-find houseplant. None of the big box or large horticultural growers have it. But it isn’t as rare as Philodendron Spiritus Sancti or even Joepii, Mamei, Royal Queen, Pink Princes, or variegated Billietiae.
P. camposportoanum price ranges from $15 to $40. Rooted cuttings may cost you below $15, and larger, more established plants may sell up to $50 or more. How much you will pay for this plant depends on your location, where you buy it, and other marketing forces.