Monstera Albo borsigiana or Monstera borsigiana Albo variegata is a variegated form of Monstera borsigiana. Many people love its lovely green leaves with nearly white variegations that may include marbling, streaks, and larger blocks, including half-moon.
Learn more Monstera albo borsigiana care and growing needs, including light, humidity, temperature, best soil, feeding, etc. There is also something on propagation. But we will start with Monstera borsigiana vs. deliciosa.
Later, we will discuss finding Monstera Albo borsigiana on sale and picking the proper cutting. Since they are closely related and resemble each other, we also give you something on the variegated Monstera Albo borsigiana vs. Thai constellation. It should help you quickly distinguish the two.
Table of content
- Monstera borsigiana vs. deliciosa
- Monstera borsigiana albo appearance
- Monstera Albo borsigiana care and growth needs
- How to propagate Monstera albo borsigiana
- Safety to pets
- Diseases and conditions
- How to get Monstera albo borsigiana on sale
- Selecting a Monstera albo borsigiana cutting
- Monstera borsigiana albo vs Monstera Thai constellation
- Frequently asked questions or FAQs
Monstera borsigiana vs. deliciosa
- Scientific name: Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana albo variegata
- Species: Monstera deliciosa
- Genus: Monstera
- Family: Araceae (arum family)
Monstera borsigiana, officially Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana, is one of the varieties of Monstera deliciosa, the so-called Swiss cheese plant, Windowleaf or split-leaf philodendron. But Swiss cheese may also refer to Monstera adansonii or Monstera obliqua.
Some people call it Mexican breadfruit, monster fruit, or fruit salad plant due to its edible fruits. Here is a Monstera borsigiana vs. deliciosa to help you differentiate these two plants.
|Feature||Monstera borsigiana||M. deliciosa|
|Geniculum (knee-like bend where leaf base meets petiole)||If you look at it, it appears smooth||It has wavy edges or a crispate (wrinkled) margin|
|Growing habits||It grows more like a vining plant such a pothos. You will often find it sold with a moss pole or stake.||It is a bit stout and spreads or sprawls over a larger area. However, in the wild, it does grow very long.|
|Leaf appearance and size||Leaves have fewer splits/fenestrations, thicker pinnate with even separation or splits. Also, they are smaller, about 1.5 feet.||More splits/fenestrated leaves, i.e., you will see more splits and holes, and the splits are not even. Also, the leaves are more prominent, up to 3 feet in size.|
|Stems||It has thinner stems with longer internodes, and leaves are far from each other.||The stems are thicker, and leaves are close to each other, i.e., shorter internodes.|
|Growth rate||Under ideal conditions, it will grow faster||Deliciosa grows slower if both plants are in ideal conditions.|
|Prices||Less pricey, selling at $10 to $25||More costly, going at $15 to $50|
Monstera borsigiana albo appearance
Monstera borsigiana albo variegata is a variegated from of Monstera borsigiana. It occurs via rare natural chimeric mutation that makes some cells unable to produce chlorophyll in one out of about 100,000 plants.
Consequently, a variegated Monstera borsigiana has green leaves with off-white to white streaks, marbling, large sectors or bocks, half-moon, or the entire leaf may look nearly whitish leaves.
The variegations are unpredictable and unstable since it occurs by a natural mutation, with some leaves turning green or entirely white. Also, one leaf will be different from the other, meaning you cannot get two exact leaves.
Last but not least, Monstera albo borsigiana seeds don’t guarantee a variegated plant. The only way to produce another variegated plant is by using a node with a variegated leaf.
Monstera Albo borsigiana care and growth needs
Monstera Albo borsigiana care is easy and much or less the same as caring for any other Monstera plant. But you need to ensure it has bright, indirect light (not medium or low) and try keeping humidity a little higher, about 60% or more.
Let us now see the details:
1. USDA hardiness zone
Like other Monsteras, borsigiana Albo’s USDA hardiness zone is 10b to 12. This plant cannot tolerate freezing temperature, and frost will kill it. Only in these zones can you grow it outdoors all year. But they must meet other growing needs.
The ideal temperature for Monstera deliciosa Albo Variegata is 68 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (20–30 °C). Your plant will grow slowly in lower temperatures, and it will not grow at all when it gets to 50°F (10°C).
Avoid drafty places in winter and areas with high temperatures like near fireplace, radiator, room heating system vents, etc. Also, a sudden dip or rise in temperature will stress your plant.
As a tropical rainforests plant, it needs a warm and humid environment to grow well. So, provide Monstera Albo borsigiana with above-average humidity, 40% or more.
If your home has low humidity, mist your plant a couple of times in a week or have a pebble tray. Also grouping plants and taking them in the bathroom, kitchen, or rooms with higher humidity may help.
However, a surer way to raise humidity is by buying a humidifier like AquaOasis™ Cool Mist Humidifier (the best seller on Amazon). This small (2.2 liter) humidifier runs is quiet for 24 hours. Also, it has functions like auto-shut, 360-degree nozzle rotation, etc.
Monstera borsigiana Albo Variegata needs bright, indirect light. It cannot thrive in lower light like its non-variegated from, Monstera deliciosa because it has less chlorophyll. So, you must give it more light to photosynthesis well.
If your apartment doesn’t get enough light, use artificial grow lights like Relassy 15000Lux Sunlike Full Spectrum Grow Lamp. It has the right illuminance within the bright, indirect light, i.e., 10,000 to 20,000 lux and lasts long (50,000 hours).
That said, you must avoid direct sunlight as it will scorch leaves. Place it at a distance from the window, especially the south-facing one. Outdoors, put it under a shade or greenhouse.
Monstera borsigiana albo will thrive in slightly acid to neutral airy, well-drained soil high in organic matter.
They grow on decaying bark, leaves, wood, or animals dropping in the wild. They will appreciate a similar mix. You can opt for an aroid mix or make your mix at home.
Any potting mix with loamy soil, peat moss or coco coir, perlite or pumice, and composite material like worm castings will work. Ratios don’t matter much if it is chunky, have humus, and drain well.
Lastly, to save you the trouble of making a potting mix, head to Etsy.com and buy a good mix.
Here is one care area you should never go wrong. And it would be best if you allowed the soil to dry a bit in-between the watering sessions. We recommend that you water your Monstera borsigiana Albo when the top 2 to 3 inches of the soil feels dry. Some will tell you when 50-75% of the potting mix is dry. It is still ok.
How often to water this plant depends on your conditions, i.e., light, temperature, humidity, season, plant size, pot size, soil mix, and other factors. But in most cases, it will be weekly in spring and summer and biweekly in winter.
Therefore, we recommend you only water this Monstera when the soil feels dry up to the first knuckle of your finger.
Alternatively, you can use soil moisture. We love XLUX Soil Moisture Meter. I think it is the best. However, Sonkir or Gouevn are also good brands.
Last but not least, you can use a top or bottom watering system. Just ensure that the soil is thoroughly saturated and water flows from drainage holes. Don’t forget to discard any water that collects on the pot saucer.
Overwatering will result in root rot. Early signs include your Monstera having yellow leaves, starting with the lower ones and constantly soggy soil. Also, your plant may wilt or droop leaves, but watering will not improve things.
Other signs to look for include a moldy potting mix, brown splotches on leaves, leaves falling off, a mushy base, and so on. See how to manage overwatering in Monsteras.
Underwatering or neglecting your plant will make your Monstera leaves curl inward, droop or wilt. Also, they may have dry brown margins and tips and yellow leaves. It will cause stunted growth, leaves dropping, withering, and death if ignored.
Like others, this Monstera requires medium feeding. So, feed your Monstera borsigiana Albo monthly with a liquid houseplant fertilizer in spring and summer. Don’t fertilize them in winter or fall.
I use Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food (Liquid) NPK 1-1-1. One pump per two weeks for a small pot and two for a large one more than six inches is enough.
A friend of mine uses Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food Spikes. It still works well. So, don't worry about the brand you use so long as it is reputed and intended for indoor houseplants.
8. Pruning and grooming
Regularly trim any yellow, brown, dead, damaged, or diseased leaves with sterilized gardening shears. You can cut a few stems in spring or even summer to encourage more growth and control plant size. Also, wipe dusty leaves with a soft cloth or microfiber dusting gloves such as Evridwear.
9. Potting and repotting
These plants grow slowly. Thus, only repot this Monstera after 2 to 3 years or if it outgrows the current pot or is rootbound. You will see roots growing from drainage holes when rootbound.
When repotting, use a slightly larger pot, about 2-4 inches wider in diameter, in early spring or during the growing season.
How to propagate Monstera albo borsigiana
Monstera borsigiana Albo Variegata propagation is mainly by stem cutting. But you can go for air layering too. Unfortunately, seeds cannot guarantee a variegated plant since the variegation is due to a rare mutation.
The best time to propagate this plant is in early spring, as it will give it ample time to properly root and establish itself before non-growing seasons.
Pro Tip: Since it is unstable, when propagating your Monstera albo borsigiana, select a node with a variegated leaf. Otherwise, the new cutting may not have variegations. Also, avoid nodes with an entirely white leaf.
a. Water propagation
If you want to observe your plant root and na less messy propagation, water is the way to go. But it takes longer, and your plant will suffer from some shock when you finally transplant it.
What you need
- A jar
- Pruning scissor
- Rooting hormone like Clonex Rooting Gel that provides not just the rooting hormone but also nourishment.
Steps to follow
- Select a healthy, mature stem with at least a node and cut it just below the node with a sterilized pruning scissor. You can use 70-90% rubbing alcohol to sterilize your scissor.
- Remove any lower leaves, leaving the upper one or two leaves.
- Apply your rooting hormone on the cut end. It will help promote faster rooting and reduce the chances of your stem cutting rotting.
- Dip the stem cutting in a jar with water, ensuring the water covers the node. However, don’t immerse any leaves in water.
- Place your plant in a warm place with bright, indirect. Avoid areas near heat sources like house heating systems, radiators, or air conditioning vents.
- Change the water when the level drops, after every 3 to 4 days, or become cloudy.
Your plant will slowly start rooting, and by the end of the 4th or 6th week, the roots may have grown long enough for transplant. But you should only transplant it if they are at least 3 inches and you see some secondary roots.
After transplanting, keep the soil moist and ensure optimum conditions, including humidity, to minimize shock.
b. Soil propagation
Soil propagation will guarantee higher success, and your plant won’t suffer from much transplant shock. Also, it will get nutrients from the soil (that water doesn’t have), and your plant may root faster.
Instead of a jar and water, you will need a nursery pot, a sealable plastic bag, and potting mix. It can be a mixture of perlite and coco coir or sphagnum moss, sphagnum, or soil mix. If sphagnum moss alone, soak it in water and wring it. Don’t water it after you plant your cutting.
Steps to follow
- Follow steps 1 to 3 above
- Put your potting mix into your growing nursery pot, make a small hole, and plant cutting, covering the node. Then, lightly press the soil around the cutting to ensure it remains upright.
- Thoroughly water your cutting and cover your plant with your plastic bag to help lock humidity, leaving a small breathing opening. Next, place your plant in a warm area with bright, indirect light.
- After every other day, remove the plastic bag for a few hours to give your plant a chance to breathe. Also, mist the potting mix if it is dry.
Your plant will slowly begin growing new roots, and by the end of the 4th or 5th week, it may be ready for transplant. You will also see a new leaf unfurling.
c. Air layering
Air layering is the easiest way to propagate this Monstera. It entails making a small nick or shallow cut on a selected node. Then wrap it with moist sphagnum in a plastic bag.
Afterward, poke some holes for aeration and keep misting the sphagnum moss whenever it begins to dry. After a few weeks, your node will have rooted. You can then cut and transplant it when the roots are large enough.
Safety to pets
Monstera borsigiana Albo is toxic or poisonous to humans, cats, dogs, and other pets. The reason why its harmful is the presence of sharp insoluble oxalate crystals.
Should you chew it, it will cause severe irritation and a burning feeling. Also, your mouth, lips, and tongue may swell and become red.
More signs include swallowing difficulties, excessive drooling, refusal to eat, and your pets may paw their mouth.
Last but not least, any sensitive skin may also suffer from mild irritation. So, wear gloves when handling it and ensure your pets or kids don’t access this plant.
Pests are not common in indoor Monstera. But it is possible that your Monstera Albo borsigiana to get spider mites, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, or whiteflies. Even fungus gnats may occur if your potting mix is always wet.
If you routinely check your plants, you should detect any pests before they cause severe damage. You will see tiny flying insects that leap, stationary or moving bumps or dots.
Depending on the pest, your plant may have webbing, pale stippling, brown, black, or yellow spots, honeydew, sooty mold, and so on. If ignored, expect ruffled, mishappen, distorted leaves, yellowing, leaves falling, stunted growth, etc.
To avoid them, isolate new plants and infested ones. If your plant has pests, hose them off or use horticultural oil sprays, neem oil (Bonide Ready to Use), or even insecticidal soaps.
Diseases and conditions
By practicing proper sanitation and isolating new plants, you can easily keep most Monstera diseases at bay. These diseases are botrytis, rust, southern blight, Monstera mosaic virus, and leaf spot bacteria.
One big issue you must work hard to avoid is Monstera root rot caused mainly by overwatering. But it can occur through poor sanitation and contaminated potting mix or water.
Besides disease, here are some common issues you have with your Monstera borsigiana Albo variegata:
1. Leaves turning yellow
Yellow leaves on this Monstera are a likely sign you are overwatering it (if it happens on the lower leaves), or there is little light. But underwatering, heat stress, too much light, low humidity, pests, diseases, rootbound, overfeeding, and nutritional deficiencies are other possible reasons.
2. Leaves curling
Monstera leaves curling means your plant is thirsty. This makes underwatering the first suspect, others being low humidity, extreme temperatures, overwatering, plant shock after repotting, pests, diseases, among other causes.
3. Brown spots, tips, edges, or leaves turning brown
Here it would help if you examined the browning. If you see brown tips and edges, the likely cause is underwatering, low humidity, overfeeding (fertilizer burns), heat stress, or transplant shock. But if you see brown spots, it may be pests, disease while brown splotches may indicate overwatering.
4. Leaves drooping or wilting
Monstera leaves wilt or droop because cells lack turgidity. This occurs when the cells don’t have water. So, the most likely cause is underwatering, heat stress, too much light, or low humidity.
Those are not the only cases. Wilting may also occur due to disease, especially root rot, pests, transplant shock, or if your plant is root-bound.
How to get Monstera albo borsigiana on sale
Monstera albo borsigiana is a rare plant. Why? Because the variegations are so rare. Also, they are unstable, and the leaves may revert to green anytime. So, it won’t be so easy to find it. And as you may expect, it will be pricey.
If you are looking for a Monstera borsigiana albo, the first place to think of is Esty.com. Here you will get many reputed vendors, and anyone, including those in the USA, Canada, the UK, Germany, Australia, etc., can buy from Etsy. Another excellent place is eBay.com.
Besides Etsy and eBay, try Facebook plant groups, Instagram or Craigslist. You may find some people selling or willing to exchange. We saw some sellers from the Philippines and Thailand too.
If you cannot still find one, try googling “Monstera albo borsigiana for sale” to see any vendor around you.
Selecting a Monstera albo borsigiana cutting
Once you get a vendor, you need to know how to select a Monstera albo borsigiana cutting that will ensure you get a variegated plant. Here are pro tips.
- Select one that has balanced variegation. Avoid those that are majorly white. Why? Because they will struggle to photosynthesize, meaning your plant will grow slowly and may not be healthy. This reduces their survival rate.
- Always ensure you see the actual cutting. Don’t rely on the mother plant appearance. There is no guarantee your cutting will be variegated too.
- Your cutting node must have a variegated leaf. Otherwise, the new unfurling leave may not be variegated.
Monstera borsigiana albo vs Monstera Thai constellation
Since they closely resemble each other, we thought it best to give you Monstera borsigiana Albo vs. Monstera Thai constellation. We have seen some unscrupulous vendors label one in place of the other.
Since one is a borsigiana and the other is a deliciosa, we expect some differences. For instance, a borsigiana has thinner stems, vining growing habits, and longer internodes. Also, it doesn’t have wavy edges on the geniculum, grows faster, and has smaller and less fenestrated leaves.
In this section, we want to focus more on what differentiates these two in terms of how the variegation looks like or how you can tell this is a Thai constellation and not a Monstera albo borsigiana.
Here is how to differentiate these two variegated plants.
|Monstera albo borsigiana||Monstera Thai Constellation|
|How they look like||It has green leaves with off-white to nearly white variegation. The speckles are, and streaks are fewer. Also, it has more and larger white blocks, including a half-moon and some having almost white leaves.||You will see creamy to white splashes or speckles scattered on the leaf. It looks something like a constellation in the sky. There are blocks too, but fewer and smaller.|
|Origin||Occur due to natural mutation that makes some cells not produce chlorophyll.||Created in Thailand via cultured tissue. However, most people sell propagated ones.|
|Variegation stability||Unstable, spontaneous, and unpredictable. Some plants may revert to green or turn entirely white.||It has stable, more consistent variegation. But each leaf is still different from another.|
|Cost||A little expensive, about $170 to $2000||Slightly cheaper, going for $150 to $1400|
|How rare||Rare, it occurs in one plant for every 100,000||Rare too, but being a lab product and stable, mass production is possible.|
Frequently asked questions or FAQs
Monstera albo borsigiana price ranges from $120 to $2000 depending on where you buy it and the plant size. A cutting will cost you between $120 to $300, and if rooted, you may pay up to $600. Larger, full grown monstera albo borsigiana cost up to $2000.
Yes. Monstera albo borsigiana is a very rare variegated Monstera deliciosa variety. The natural mutation that causes the variegation occurs once in over 100,000 plants, so you cannot use seeds. Also, the plant grows slowly, is expensive, and may revert. So, mass production isn’t easy, takes time, and many people cannot afford it.
Don’t buy Monstera albo borsigiana seeds because they will not necessarily give you a variegated plant. The mutation involved is not inherited, i.e., seeds don’t carry it
Since Monstera albo borsigiana is unstable, it may revert. It happens as a survival mechanism, especially when conditions don’t favor it. What should you do? Cut the reverting branch after the last variegated leaf.
The new growth should be variegated. Please do the same when leaves all turn white, and this is what we do even to the Philodendron Birkin.